2012 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Hapgood Vineyard

My favorite of the whites, and the first vintage for this cuvee, the 2012 Chardonnay Hapgood is a gorgeous wine that offers medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, rich texture and notable mid-palate depth that sets it apart from the other releases. Coming from sandy loam soils and aged all in neutral oak, it has classic ripe apple fruits, brioche, citrus blossom and toasted nut aromas and flavors, and can be consumed anytime over the coming 5-6 years. Steve Clifton and Greg Brewer continue to produce a bevy of beautiful releases from the Sta. Rita Hills. Looking at their latest releases, their 2012 Pinot Noirs are superb and check in near the top of the vintage. While the Chardonnays are solid, and in some cases outstanding, I thought they lacked concentration and had too much acidity for their own good. Looking at the Pinot Noirs, which as a whole I found more successful than the Chardonnays, these were all harvested on the same date, fermented with 100% whole cluster and aged in neutral oak. Tel. (805) 735-9184; www.brewerclifton.com

The 2012 Chardonnay Hapgood emerges from a parcel next to Acin. Sweet floral notes typical of Mount Eden clone Chardonnay meld into bright yet soft fruit. The Hapgood is all about finesse, lift and perfume, with underlying currents of acidity that support the fruit. This is the first commercial release from a parcel that was just in its fourth leaf in 2012. The potential here appears to be significant.