2019 Bergström Pinot Noir Silice

Dark crimson. Mineral-accented black raspberry, cherry cola and violet aromas are complemented by a spicy nuance and a hint of botanical herbs. Well-concentrated yet lively as well, offering intense red and blue fruit, candied lavender and spicecake flavors supported by a spine of minerality. Finishes very long and finely detained, displaying lingering cherry, floral and spice qualities and gently chewy tannins.

The 2019 Pinot Noir Silice Vineyard is generous and already very layered this vintage. The nose offers detailed cranberries, blackberries, licorice and flint. The palate is silky and has inviting savory tones streaking through the wild berry fruit. It finishes with fantastic length and detail. This was made using 100% whole clusters.

Planted 2001 at 400 ft on shiny quartz in sand, Silice has the deepest sandy soils of any of Bergström's estate vineyards. This 20-acre vineyard sprawls over four different rolling sandy hillsides and sees all-day, unrelenting sun exposure, and strong winds. Bright cherry red. And, funnily enough, it does smell rather of red cherries. Very smooth (when tasted immediately after the Temperance Hill!) on palate entry. Lots of pure Pinot Noir fruit here and, as usual from this producer, there's no simple sweetness. This has real sinews, zest and character – even a hint of orange zest. Clearly a wine with a future. Quite a triumph. Some wines from sandy soils are a bit soft, but not this one. The tannins are definitely present but only underneath some intriguing and beguiling fruit. (JR)