2017 Domaine Georges Roumier Musigny Grand Cru

The 2017 Musigny Grand Cru comprises double the amount of the 2016 (hoorah!), which is still just one-and-a-half barrels (boo!) It has an exquisite bouquet of brambly black fruit, woodland scents, hints of black truffle and crushed flowers that seem to bloom with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lucid red fruit on the entry, delivering energy and superb depth, and almost sorbet-fresh toward the very persistent finish. A sublime Musigny.

There are one and a half barrels of the 2017 Musigny Grand Cru, a superb but reserved wine that unwinds to reveal aromas of rose petal, cherries, raspberries, sweet spices, orange rind and espresso roast. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and complete, with a layered, multidimensional core, lively acids and a long, resonant finish. Like the Bonnes-Mares, this looks to be one of the wines of the vintage, though it's even less outgoing at this early stage.