2016 Domaine Georges Roumier Musigny Grand Cru

(vinified entirely with whole clusters in a new 180-liter barrel made specially for the tiny quantity of fruit--18 hectoliters per hectare--produced in 2016): Good deep red. An aroma of raspberry is given lift and punch by chalky mineral pungency and a note of white pepper. Boasts outstanding thickness and finesse of texture, conveying a bulletproof quality to its fruit. Displays lovely spicy lift yet does not come across as particularly oaky--and not a bit dominated by its considerable stem component. This wine may not have quite the refinement or palate-saturating length of its 2015 sibling but it offers stunning potential.

Just less than 0.1 ha. Ancient vines from the 1920s. Down 50% in 2016 – just 180 litres, a special little cask made by François Frères. 100% whole bunch. Very heady and much more reserved than the Amoureuses. Very dark and dark fruited. Rich and lively. A little more earthbound for the moment than the Amoureuses. No evidence of new oak. Lots of tannins but almost hidden by the brisk red-cherry fruit. Fabulous. Such length and spice. Needs a bit of time. (JR)