2005 Domaine Jean Garaudet Monthélie

Three quarters of Garaudet’s 2005 Monthelie comes from the “Piece Fitte” and “Clou de Chenes” vineyards next to Volnay Clos des Chenes, and the wine displays that Clos’s signature ginger spice and sauteed mushroom aromas, along with raspberry and red currant. Distilled fruit overtones and hints of game emerge with air. Rather tart, sappy, vibrant fruit is adeptly folded into a subtly creamy palate, and the wine finishes with a gush of fruit and spice. Jean Garaudet has sold his domaine, as he has no children interested in carrying on. But the new owner will retain him as a consultant beginning with this year’s harvest. Garaudet – who still does things the old fashion way, including genuine foot-treading of the cap, and whose wines are often a touch rustic but surprisingly good keepers – has been the source of many excellent Burgundy values over the years, and 2005 is no exception. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.