2011 Carlisle Zinfandel DuPratt Vineyard

(this is the first zinfandel bottling from Mendocino for Carlisle, sourced from a site planted in 1920; harvested on November 2 at 24.6 Brix; bottled at 15.1% alcohol and a very low pH of 3.05): Opaque ruby. An exotically perfumed nose evokes fresh red and dark berries, cola and peppery spices, with subtle earth and lavender nuances adding complexity. Sappy, sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors are enlivened by a tangy note of blood orange and show excellent clarity. Appealingly bright and lively, finishing with silky tannins and lingering florality.

Carlisle’s 2011 Zinfandel Du Pratt Vineyard, from a site planted in 1920, is endowed with striking inner perfume. Layers of blue and black fruit, cloves, mint, violets and graphite come alive in the glass. Plush, deep and sensual, the Du Pratt is showing beautifully today. Layers of dark, meaty fruit flow through to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700