2009 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

The 2009 Bonnes-Mares opens with an exotic, beguiling bouquet. Layers of fruit flow effortlessly as this powerful, rich Burgundy shows off its pedigree. The Bonnes-Mares is a thrill a minute, with its intense energy and pure freshness. This is a great showing from Mugnier. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Frederic Mugnier insists that his 2009s will outlive his 2010s. Tasting these 2009s from bottle, it hard to argue with that view. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

Medium red. Blueberry, black cherry, violet, mocha and smoke on the nose, plus a whiff of underbrush. Then sweet, large-scaled and powerful in the mouth, with a velvety texture to the flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, mocha and wild herbs. Finishes with big, rich, broad tannins and lingering notes of blueberry and licorice. A bit heavy for a wine from this domain, but then it's carrying 14%.

Deep and bright crimson. Much more on the nose than most other Mugnier 2009s, even though it has been racked. More race than the three other Bonnes Mares I have tasted this morning! Real excitement and nerve and lift. Quite transparent, mineral and great stuff, zesty. Have one-third white and two-third red soils. Very different style from most. (JR)