2005 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein

The 2005 Riesling Heiligenstein is considerably more forthcoming than the Gaisberg, with site-typical floral perfume and licorice along with notes of candied lemon and wood smoke. Lean, lithe, and bright on the palate, this successfully marries density of red berry and citrus fruit and pungent minerality with an athletic, almost acrobatic sense of interplay. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition ($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?). Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300