1988 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

The 1988 Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes from Mongeard-Mugneret has matured with grace. Mature in color, it has a soft and slightly smudged bouquet with hints of soy, autumn leaves and, with time, just a suggestion of Japanese green tea. The palate is medium-bodied and fully mature, the tannins have melted over the last couple of decades. There is impressive depth considering its age, if not the sophistication of a top grower, although the hints of leather and even oxtail lend it intrigue on the fleshy finish. This is a very commendable Echézeaux, if not one that I would cellar long-term.