2014 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Kabinett Trocken

Dry Kabinett is a dying species in Germany and also in the Mosel. Sybille Kuntz's pale-golden 2014 Mosel-Riesling Kabinett trocken (AP #2) comes along with 12% alcohol and opens with a delicate, pure fruit and slate aroma on the nose. Sourced on the pure slate soils of the Lieserer Schlossberg, this is an elegant and vivacious Kabinett with a grippy and greenish freshness, an almost silky texture and a serious structure. Good power in the finish. No charming boy though, this wine has punch.

This wine is described as feinherb (off dry) on the Kuntz website which explains that the wine 'is made mainly from old vines grown in the steep vineyards of Pauls Valley, a side valley formed by the River Mosel some 35,000 years ago. Today it is part of the single vineyard site Lieser Schlossberg. Picking is done a little later than [that of] the Qualitätswein. RS 7.2 g/l, TA 8.5 g/l. A dry, aromatic and elegant wine.' It certainly tastes very dry, given its high acidity, but there is good extract and a sleek texture. It's already drinking well if you want a wine to wake you up. Absolutely classic Kabinett. Quite assertive and this would be great with food. (JR)

Screwcap. Delicately scented with spring blossom and a touch of lime and stones. Unexpectedly dense and long after such a light first impression. Rich in fruit. Very fresh and long and incredibly precise, with long grapefruit finish. (JH)