2012 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Singerriedel Smaragd

The Hirtzberger 2012 Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel features almond and pistachio extracts along with peach kernel in a penetrating, high-toned nose, anticipating the piquant richness conveyed to nut oils and white peach on an expansive, subtly oily but persistently juicy palate. There is a crescendo of flavors here through the finish that is almost breathtaking. At the same time, the impression remains seamless and polished. Although I tend toward partisanship toward Hochrain vis-a-vis Singerriedel (particularly as the two mature in bottle), in this instance the Hochrain - fine though it is - comes off as ever so slightly rustic alongside the Singerriedel. Plan to follow the latter through 2020. A starkly simple but profoundly impressive little tasting room (something that never really existed at this famous estate) in the former pressoir under their medieval stone home, is hardly the most noteworthy new development at this winery. The Hirtzbergers have bought at auction the Florianihof in Wosendorf (whence their mid-17th century ancestors first repaired from Styria) and will not only begin farming and making wines from the affiliated acreage but will revive the restaurant that the former owners long ran. The 2012 collection here is not only awe-inspiring in its sheer quality, it also offers intriguing and encouraging insights into what lies in this estate's future as generations change guard. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0700