1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Full bottle 1,599 g. A famous wine! In Michael Broadbent’s Vintage Wine , he gives this wine five stars(!) and writes ‘Most recently [May 2001] at the Paulo Pong tasting at Jancis Robinson’s: now medium-deep with a touch of cherry; lovely, chunky fruit, on nose and palate, with a touch of ripe softness.’ Transparent ruby. Leathery and sweet. Gamey. Really quite fresh. Very Grenache; very Châteauneuf. Dry but not drying finish. I’m looking forward to comparing this with Barbe Rac 1989 with tonight’s roast chicken. The two wines are way past the massive, concentrated style of young Châteauneuf. (JR)

Full bottle 1,603 g. I hope they have lightweighted since then... Looks mid ruby – deeper colour than the Rayas 2005! Gamey nose, possibly the best match for the grouse that we are having tonight. Still some tannins in evidence, amazingly. This seems as though it must have been pretty tough in youth. Treacle toffee underneath with some sweet liquorice notes too. (JR)

Pale ruby – first pour very clear. Very pale rim. Light but warm, slightly charred nose with the merest hint of gaminess. Clearly tertiary aromas. Very sweet palate entry. Utterly charming and no shortage of fruit. Very long and throat-soothing (which I desperately need). Planned to accompany grouse with Ch Rayas 2005. A very good bottle. (JR)