2017 Cristom Pinot Noir Jessie Vineyard

The Jessie Vineyard, named for winegrower-owner Tom Gerrie’s great-grandmother Jessie Summers, was established in 1994 after the Gerrie family saw great potential in planting a steep, east-facing hillside to a variety of Pinot Noir clones: Dijon (113, 114, 115, 667, 777) and Pommard. Ranging in elevation from 320 ft to 550 ft (98 m to 168 m), this 11.53-acre (4.67-ha) site is one of the steepest in Oregon. Jessie is planted at a high density of 2,311 vines per acre (5,710 vines/ha). Biodynamic farming (not certified). 51% whole clusters of hand-harvested and hand-sorted fruit. 100% ambient-yeast fermentations. 1–3 punchdowns daily in 1- to 5-ton open-top fermenters. Moved to barrel by gravity. Undergoes full malolactic conversion in barrel. Fined with egg whites, unfiltered. 18 months in French oak, 53% new. TA 5.4 g/l, pH 3.71. Mid to light ruby red. Rich and sweetly aromatic but not as sweet-smelling as many Californian Pinots, this has a more tangy red-fruitedness as well as plenty of oak spice, which adds its own sweetness. Gently earthy. On the palate, generous, mouth-filling and full of fruit. Just enough freshness to balance that generosity and just a touch of heat at the back of the throat. The tannins are smooth, rounded but with some firmness, giving the impression of good ageing potential even if you could drink this now at the table. Again, the freshness of the whole-bunch component was more obvious on the day after opening. Overall a rich yet savoury style. (JH)