2005 Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein Lyra

Many years Brundlmayer’s “Lyra” bottling of Heiligenstein Riesling – named for its vines’ sun-trapping raised arms – has become a bit alcoholically overheated. The 2005 Riesling Heiligenstein Lyra certainly ratchets up the aromatic intensity vis a vis the regular bottling, with high-toned esters and intense ripeness, but happily is free of heat. Where I am concerned this year is with a certain bitterness in its finish which may be indelible. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86). Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300