2014 Domaine Dugat-Py Mazis-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

(90% vendange entier ; from vines averaging 70 years of age):Healthy red-ruby. Wild, complex aromas of blackberry, blueberry, faded rose, white pepper and truffley underbrush. Less silky and accessible today than the Mazoyères owing to its strong saline minerality; this is a deeper wine but much less explosive today. The tannins here are tougher than those of the Mazoyères and will require a good eight to ten years of cellaring, but the very long, palate-staining finish suggests that this wine will be superb.

The 2014 Mazi Chambertin Grand Cru, 95% whole bunch fruit this year and aged in 100% new oak, has an enticing floral bouquet with wilted violets and blueberry notes gently wafting from the glass. The new wood is deftly integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy ripe tannin. There is plenty of red berry fruit here, very structured though, very correct and linear with a dense, minerally finish that is almost impenetrable now. It will need a decade in bottle.

70-year-old vines. 90% whole bunch. 100% new oak. Heady, exciting, nuanced nose with floral, even rosy nose. Real pace here as well as density and energy. So sappy! Readier than some of his grands crus. (JR)