2014 Sandhi Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict

This wine comes from the oldest block of the original vines still intact from the original 1971 planting of its vineyard. A gravelly site full of silica and at an elevation to receive both some wind and daily fog, while also facing north so staying rather cool most of the day. Fermented and aged in new puncheons for 11 months, then in tank for six. The notes in both the aromatics and palate carry a deeper tone, hitting at a lower register, compared with the Mt Carmel and Bentrock. There is also a broader presence across the palate. Mixed citrus notes marry to savoury flavours and the salty-savoury flavour of aged meats carry through a long finish. There is a bit more phenolic cut to this wine – especially compared to the Mt Carmel, which is almost lacy in comparison, while the Bentrock is more taut and compact currently – and a feeling of more concentration as well, which makes sense considering the age of the vines. Delicious. Matchstick on the nose and palate. Long, juicy finish. (ECB)