2007 von Hovel - Kanzemer Horecker Riesling Auslese

The one star 2007 Kanzemer Hohecker Riesling Auslese (whose label-design now actually incorporates one star to the left of -Riesling- and a second to the right of -Auslese-) once again displays the talents of von Kunow's monopole nearly surrounded by the more famous Altenberg. Boasting citric brightness allied to pear nectar richness and high-toned honeysuckle, freesia, orange blossom, and citrus oil aromas, this combines delicacy, lusciousness, creaminess of texture, and refreshment, with hints of white raisin, caramel, nut paste, and honey reflecting (in von Kunow's words) -perhaps 30 or 40% botrytis, but a really good botrytis.- This is one of those 2007s that's confectionary in the best possible sense, not incorporating excessive sweetness. One can expect from it at least 25 years of satisfaction. Ebernard von Kunow himself, along with many journalists, was harder his 2006 collection than was I. Still, the 2007s are more consistent; will certainly be longer-lived; and at the top end represent some of his most exhilarating and riveting wines ever. They were also picked within a relative narrow range of must weights (even allowing for considerable botrytis). -It was really just a matter of taste,- says von Kunow, -deciding what would become Kabinett, what Spatlese, and what Auslese. I did lengthy sorting in an attempt to bottle Beerenauslese, but in the end I concluded -it just isn't there.-- Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463.