2005 Selbach-Oster Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese

The 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese offers an aromatic juxtaposition of grapefruit, lime, and pineapple with toasted nuts and a nippy note of botrytis pungency. Tightly compressed and firm on the palate, it blazes in the back end with citrus and honey, underlain by toasted nuts and wet stone. This needs time I suspect to fully express itself and would, I am sure, benefit from aging for two to three decades. “For me, 2005 is a singular vintage in my career,” says Johannes Selbach, “in that it is ripe, multi-faceted, and has excellent acidity. You can pick any of the other recent classics – 1975, 1990 ... . Each of the benchmark years is great in its way, however here you have a combination that is fun to drink now, ten years from now, and in thirty years as well. It remains to be seen, but I think 2005 is in another league.” Readers will indeed be hard pressed this year to find another address with this many consistently outstanding wines, and when has there ever been a more diverse and at the same time magnificent array of Auslesen? In their upper reaches, the Selbach 2005s seem – like Zilliken's, but in their own unique way – to chart a trajectory beyond the normal course for their vintage. The harvest here extended from mid-October to mid-November. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300