2002 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill Vineyard

It seems fully mature, but what a great, great Cabernet Sauvignon the 2002 Tychson Hill Vineyard is. Tasting like a hypothetical blend of a first growth Pauillac and a great Napa Cab, this world-class wine has a gorgeous nose of white chocolate, sweet black currants, acacia flowers and cedar as well as a hint of toast. With a full-bodied, voluptuously textured, opulent mouthfeel, gorgeously silky tannin and an evolved set of aromatics, the flavors have resolved all the tannin and the wine is now perfectly balanced. It is a real tour de force, so for those who are sitting on any appreciable stock of this, you’re lucky, but at the same time, I would start drinking it up, as I think it needs to be consumed over the next decade. The debut vintage of the Tychson Hill Vineyard, which is located right on Route 29, north of St. Helena, was 2002. I gave it a prefect score seven years ago, and there’s no reason to change that. My only surprise from my recent tasting is that the wine has evolved slightly faster than I would have thought. Tel. (707) 963-0999

Saturated deep ruby. Extravagantly complex aromas of cassis, smoked meat, truffle, graphite and rocks, all lifted by an exotic whiff of orange oil; remains just this side of roasted and conveys a powerful impression of soil character. Then almost shockingly vibrant in the mouth, with compellingly deep flavors of black raspberry, flowers and minerals. This chewy, tactile wine offers extraordinary palate coverage. Finishes with a fine dusting of thoroughly ripe tannins and great palate-staining persistence.