2006 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Murgers 1er Cru

The Meo-Camuzet 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Aux Murgers is – explains Jean-Nicolas Meo – based on fruit that ripened especially precipitately and with fragile skins, even in the context of the vintage, one result of which was particularly low acidity. Blackberry and plum preserves along with roasted beet root and red meat combine for a dark, deep, sweet richness, yet despite Meo's warning, I find more brightness, levity, and primary fruit juiciness here than in many of his other wines of this vintage. Furthermore, the tannins here are fine-grained and mannerly. This is more refined, 'though for the moment perhaps marginally less interesting than the corresponding Boudots, and it should also certainly be worth following for at least 6-8 years. Jean-Nicolas Meo harvested 2006 fruit between 13.25-14.25% potential alcohol, slightly higher than in 2005. Except for a few instances of vineyards touched by hail, he said, he vinified in essentially the same way (including the same percentages of new barrels) as he had in 2005. Meo notes that the pHs of his 2006s ended up quite high after their malos, and while this contributes to their sense of softness and generosity, I sometimes find these wines wanting for some vivacity or primary juiciness. (I have appended to the description of Meo's negociant bottlings the words "Frere et Soeur" that appear underneath "Meo-Camuzet" on their labels.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25