2017 Scarecrow M. Etain

Rocking crème de cassis, flowery incense, smoked tobacco, and a touch of chocolate all emerge from the 2017 M. Etain, which has the classic elegance of this cuvée paired with medium to full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannins, and just terrific overall balance. It picks up plenty of minerality on the finish, and while approachable today, it will drink well for 20 years or more. The blend is 84% Cab Sauvignon, 8% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot, and 3% Merlot, all from the estate in Rutherford, that spent 18 months in 70% new French oak.

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon M. Étain is ripe, unctuous and flashy, with exotic beauty and tons of allure. Super-ripe red cherry, kirsch, plum, rose petal, mocha and licorice all run through the 2017. This is the first vintage in which M. Étain is a Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine rather than a pure Cabernet. The 2017 is rich and fabulously lush, with superb balance and loads of appeal. It's hard to describe a $200 wine as under-the-radar or overdelivering, but M. Étain has really been impressive these last few vintages, and 2017 is no exception. Scarecrow fans will love it - of that I have no doubt.

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the 2017 M. Étain is deep garnet-purple colored and prances out of the glass with exuberant baked cherries, warm mulberries, plum pudding and crème de cassis notes with touches of Provence herbs, tilled soil and pencil lead plus wafts of spice box and potpourri. Full-bodied, firm and earthy in the mouth, the palate has bags of freshness and a firm structure with loads of spicy nuances on the finish.