2013 Maison Joseph Drouhin Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru

Bright medium red. Wild red berries, crushed stone and mint on the rather reduced nose, along with some pungent spicy high notes. Sappy and saline on the creamy mid-palate, with a restrained sweetness giving the wine a light touch. Manages to be at once wild and refined, finishing with superb length and noble tannins.

The 2013 Grands Echézeaux comes from old vines and includes around 15% whole-cluster fruit. It has a very ripe and opulent bouquet with dark plum and mulberry with light violet scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe tannins, very good density, backward compared to Drouhin’s other 2013s, with density and presence on the finish. This is a Grands Echezeaux demanding to be taken seriously. You should heed its advice.

Partial whole cluster. 21 days' maceration, 16 months in oak . Blackish cherry red but translucent. Scented with sweet dark cherries. Some oak sweetness on the nose. Delicious though dry and not giving at the moment. Suppressed for now but all that energy and fruit waiting to open. Light on the mid palate and yet long. Papery finesse. Not at all flattering at the moment but has a dark elegance. (JH)