1991 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny Grand Cru

The flight of wines from Mugnier that followed brought back memories of my visit to the property last year. I thought the 1998 Musigny was the best of the three vintages we tasted, but there was some disagreement at the table, most notably from Mugnier himself, who preferred the 1993. I loved the 1998 Musigny for its inner perfume, sweetness and freshness. It was a beautifully balanced wine with a very promising future. Simply put, it was awesome. The 1993 Musigny revealed a more sauvage personality, with less overall elegance, particularly in its tannins. Unfortunately this was not a great bottle. The 1991 Musigny was delicate and structured at the same time, as roses, mint and sweet ripe fruit wafted from the glass with tons of elegance.

The great grand cru Musigny reveals inadequate concentration, feeble color, and a non-existent finish. Where are the finesse and flavor? This firm can fashion immensely seductive, supple red burgundies that reveal copious quantities of oak and sweet, ripe fruit. Mugnier's 1991s are surprisingly light, to the point of being diluted. A Becky Wasserman Selection, various importers.