2003 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny Grand Cru

A nose of violets, spicy red and black fruit plus a distinct note of plum leads to dense, rich and very full-bodied flavors that explode in the mouth with a complex, pure and wonderfully sappy character, all wrapped in a finish that just doesn't quit. Class in a glass and the normally very strong 2003 vintage influence is less evident than it is in many top wines. Lovely stuff here and while it's not classic Mugnier in style, it's really quite an attractive effort, especially for the vintage. Plus, it's a wine that will age for decades and it's possible that I'm underestimating the full potential here as unlike some '03s, this is evolving very slowly.

Good red-ruby. Superripe aroma of black raspberry, with a slight raisiny nuance. Superripe and hugely sweet; this coats the entire mouth. But my sample seemed a bit porty, with a note of damp earth, and finished with a slightly spirity cognac aspect. This was 13.7% potential alcohol at the harvest and is now 13.3% in bottle. For now I will defer judgment, as I am not confident that this bottle was typical. It's worth noting, though, that Mugnier bottles with extremely low levels of free sulfur.

Beguiling aromas of blueberries, red cherries, raspberries, violets, and roses explode from the glass of the 2003 Musigny (my notes read “unreal aromatic depth!”). Medium-bodied and velvety-textured, this supple gem is filled with jammy red and blue fruits. Lush, sensual, and plump, it reveals a trace of alcoholic warmth in the finish and isn’t quite as long as the Bonnes Mares or Amoureuses. Projected maturity: now-2015. A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70,various American importers, including Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3800