2008 Alban Grenache Alban Estate Vineyard

The 2008 Grenache presents an inward yet expressive core of dark red fruit, flowers and Provencal herbs. There is a gorgeous fleshiness in the glass, but the wine needs time to soften and open up. Today, the 2008 shows quite a bit of promise. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. This is a fabulous set of wines from John and Lorraine Alban. Quite simply, I was blown away by what I tasted. As I noted last year, the whites are increasingly made in a more energetic style, not a bad thing as the fruit is already so expressive from the start. Over the years, a similar evolution has taken place with the reds. The inky, black color of the Syrahs is now gone. Today, Alban favors lengthy barrel aging for his top reds, a technique he compares to “braising” in cooking, which requires softer and gentler fermentations at the outset. Beginning around 2006, Alban started doing fewer pump overs and in general encourages longer, slower fermentations. The wines used to go into barrel with some sugar still left to ferment, while today they go in drier than in the past. Over the years, new oak levels have also come down. Most of the current releases are 2008s, a vintage Alban describes as characterized by a spring frost, drought and cloudy days with less heat and sunlight than is typically the case. Readers may want to check out my video interview with John Alban for more on current and upcoming vintages. Tel. (805) 546-0305; www.albanvineyards.com

Showing even a touch better than when tasted out of barrel last year, the 2008 Alban Vineyards Grenache Alban Estate Vineyard will spend a total 35 months in 50% new French oak. Despite this elevage, which seems to leave most California Grenache wines with an open, soft feel, this maintains an incredibly dense and powerful feel to go with top-notch aromatics, full body, and brilliant concentration and depth through the mid-palate. Once bottled, it should benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and drink well for 12-15 years.

The 2008 Grenache is just plain beautiful at this stage. A striking bouquet redolent of dark red fruit, flowers and spices melds into a core of textured fruit. This is all purity and finesse. I can hardly wait to taste the finished wine. This is very fresh for a wine that has been in barrel for nearly three years. The 2008 Grenache is 98% Grenache and 2% Syrah.