2002 Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese

Smoky botrytis can be discerned in the timid nose of the 2002 Riesling Spatlese Kiedrich Grafenberg. Awesomely rich, complex, and intense, this outstanding Spatlese will most certainly merit a more exalted review when its nose sorts itself out. It slathers the palate with honeyed minerals, botrytis, spices, and candied limes whose effects linger in its impressively long, lush finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020. Importer: A Rudi Wiest Selection, Cellar International, Inc., Carlsbad, CA; tel. (760) 753-4244

Some of the same attractive texture, generous fruit, and overall harmony displayed by the non-vineyard-designated Spatlese is also present here, but the added flavor dimensions go far beyond those exhibited by that wine, or in fact by any wine on Weil's table today. The citricity here is subtle, helping to lift and carry poached white peach, honey and flowers into a long, fine, billowing, nearly endless finish. The expression of minerals here is almost like chalk dust, folded into a leesy, creamy, polished palate. Nine hundred fifty cases of this show-stopper were produced, close to a third of which were earmarked for the U.S. 2 stars.