2010 Louis Jadot Echézeaux Grand Cru

The 2010 Echezeaux Grand Cru has a gorgeous, fragrant bouquet with pure wild strawberry, maraschino and blood orange scents that show great clarity and opulence. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip. It is a little more compact that the nose suggests, but there is certainly good structure here and it will reward several year in the cellar. Drink 2016-2030. This was the first time I had been back to Louis Jadot’s expansive winery on the northern outskirts of Beaune since their memorable 150th anniversary tasting back in 2008. As I quipped in the previous issue, Jacques Lardiere was then talking about his imminent retirement that seemed to never come. But on this occasion, there was new winemaker Frederic Barnier there to greet me. He has large shoes to fill but he seems up to the task of steering this important Burgundy name to a new chapter, having worked alongside Jacques for a couple of years. “At the beginning, we were not so confident about the whites,” he explained in reference to his 2011s, “but it has been a nice surprise. The dry spring of 2011 affected the level of ripeness but it has lent freshness, but with low acidity.” We did not have time to taste the entire portfolio of over 80 crus, but instead took a sample of 20 white and reds from both the 2010 and 2011 vintages. Importer: Kobrand, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700

Medium red. Complex but youthfully withdrawn nose offers deep, savory scents of cherry, raspberry, mocha, iron, tobacco and spices lifted by a rose petal high note. Sweet, creamy and soil-driven, with lovely concentration to the sappy red berry flavors. A bit earthier than the Clos Vougeot and not quite as tight or taut today but still light on its feet. Finishes with suave, lightly dusty tannins and slowly building persistence.

The 2010 Echezeaux is stunningly beautiful. I am not sure where the wine starts and ends. It just orbits in a very special place where all of the elements are beautifully balanced. Finely knit layers of dark red fruit, spices and mint are just some of the notes that emerge from the glass. But the Echezeaux is not about aromas or flavors, it is really much more about textural elegance and finesse. This is a dazzling showing.