2010 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas Les Claux

The opaque ruby/purple-hued, enormously concentrated 2010 Gigondas Le Claux (from vines planted in limestone soils; 150 cases produced) displays subtle notes of earth, black fruits and flowers in addition to a huge, opulent, full-bodied mouthfeel, good acidity and some structure and tannin in the finish. It will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and last for 15-20 years. Louis Barruol has been at the top of his game since the late 1990s, and over the last few vintages, he has been making some of the finest wines in the southern Rhone as well as France. The glories here are Barruol’s single vineyard/special cuvees of Gigondas, but consumers should not overlook the terrific value offered by his Cotes du Rhones. The wines are sold under two monikers, Chateau Saint-Cosme and simply Saint-Cosme (his negociant line-up). Barroul produces a small quantity of Chateauneuf du Pape that is usually about 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Cinsault and 10% Syrah. Importer: Country Vintners, Ashland, VA; tel. (804) 752-3670

The most elegant and finesse-driven of the three single vineyard offerings, the 2010 Château de Saint-Cosme Gigondas Le Claux is 100% Grenache that comes from a plot located just besides Hominis Fides. Fermented and aged in oak (30% new) for 12 months, it exhibits gorgeously complex aromas of violets, red and black fruits, garrigue, roasted meats, and leather that simply soar from the glass. Perfumed, fresh, and vividly pure, this full-bodied Gigondas is straight and focused on the palate, with laser-like focus, very finely polished tannin, and incredibly length. Less upfront and powerful than the other two offerings, this should still age just as long, and two or three decades of longevity are not out of the question.

Opaque ruby color. Pungent floral and cherry aromas, with a bright mineral tone adding complexity and vibrancy. Sweet, concentrated raspberry and cherry flavors show liqueur-like power, but with plenty of lift and vivacity. Becomes spicier and deepens with air, finishing with a sappy, clinging quality and impressive purity.