2016 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett

“We didn’t have to pick for this until mid-October,” noted Adam, “yet in aggregate the must weight was only 78 Oechsle.” The results are highly expressive aromatically and amply ripe, while projecting the levity, animation and pushback of acidity against sweetness that distinguish the Kabinett genre, not to mention the sheer irresistible drinkability. Lime, peach and Persian melons present a lusciously sherbet-like palate impression, at once subtly creamy and brightly juicy, soothing yet invigorating. Stony and smoky accents add intrigue to a buoyant, superbly sustained finish. Not only were the grapes for this delectably delicate Kabinett much lower in must weight than those that informed the corresponding Häs’chen and Goldtröpfchen, they were also higher in acidity; yet, of the three, this is, paradoxically, the wine with the most flattering creaminess of texture and – presumably thanks to longer hang time – the ripest in flavor.