2012 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Corton Perrières Grand Cru

New since 2009, the 2012 Corton-Perrieres Grand Cru comes from a vineyard that Jean-Nicolas confessed needed a lot of work when they took over. It has a relatively light nose compared to some of the other grand crus tasted. The palate is clean and pure on the entry with supple red cherry and cranberry fruit, although it needs to muster just a little more complexity on the minerally finish. This is one to watch. Domaine Meo-Camuzet boasts one of the most enviable portfolios in Vosne-Romanee, crowned by Richebourg Grand Cru and Cros Parantoux, the latter essentially grand cru in all but name thanks to the late Henri Jayer, who decided that vines might profit more from the land than a few veg. I have been following the wines for over a decade and visiting Jean-Nicolas Meo’s cellar just down the road from Bernard Gros. Together we tasted through both his negociant and domaine bottlings, partly from pre-prepared samples and others directly from barrel. He told me he had been surprised at the changes in pH post-malo-lactic fermentation, possibly due to a precipitation of potassium that had made the wines feel rounder. Certainly some of the cuvees did have a certain “sumptuousness” about them, but for the most part that tannins were present and correct, lending backbone to offset the occasionally intense fruit. Readers should note that I took a video of Jean-Nicolas discussing the vintage in his cellars, so please access this for further insight. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524