2010 La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva

80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha. Selección Especial is reserved for the very best vintage: only 2001, 1973 and 1964 have so far been so elevated – in which case the price seems rather friendly. 'Aged in American barriques made in-house, racked by hand and by candlelight every six months.' Shaded transparent ruby with shaded rust-coloured rim. Warm, gentle nose that 's like a cocktail of strawberries, cream and subtle vanilla. Pure traditional rioja that's already giving pleasure but, on the basis of past performance, this is only at the start of a glorious life. Just the right mix of broad, ripe fruit and subtle refreshment. So clean! Dry, refreshing finish. GV (JR)

Dried cherries, cedar, sandalwood, tar, treacle tart, cinnamon and vanilla. Medium body, fine-grained and very silky tannins for a wine of almost 10 years of age, bright and transparent acidity and a long, very spicy finish. Like going back in time and touching an ornate tapestry. The texture is mesmerizing. Drink now.

2010 was a great vintage in Rioja in general and seems to be exceptional here, with a 2010 Viña Ardanza Selección Especial (what used to be Reserva Especial) that can challenge any of the recent vintages and hopefully can develop in bottle to reach the heights of years like 1973 or 1964. The wine is expressive, aromatic, very elegant and clean, with classical Rioja aromas of long aging in barrel and slow oxidation through the years in wood. The palate is polished and sleek but shows plenty of energy, with very fine, mostly resolved tannins and very good harmony and persistence. There is great complexity, and you could start smelling spice and smoke to move to earthy tones, hints of beef blood, cherries in liqueur, curry, diesel, old furniture and forest floor. A great Viña Ardanza! They have managed to produce 600,000 bottles of this—and apparently in one single lot. It was bottled in May 2015.