2018 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain

I continue to think the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain was slightly impacted by the high-level smoke on Howell Mountain in 2018, but now five years after the vintage, it certainly hasn't gotten worse, and I think what smoke is there isn't going to negatively impact the wine going forward. Deep purple-hued, with a powerful, concentrated style in its ripe blackcurrants, scorched earth, lead pencil shavings, and chalky minerality, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a round, layered texture, chalky tannins, and outstanding length. I followed (and drank) this bottle over multiple days, and it showed consistently, which gives me more confidence in this wine. Nevertheless, this is a wine that makes you question the wine as well as yourself.

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is a typically long-term proposition, coated in dusty tannins and cedary oak. It will take time for the cassis, blueberry and slightly pine-scented backbone of this wine to emerge, as for the moment it's almost difficult to taste. Yes, the concentration is present, the tannins are almost silky-ripe, but the structure of this medium to full-bodied wine is unassailable. Hands off for at least five years, and probably more, to judge by how past vintages have evolved.

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is elegant, deep and classy. Inky dark purplish fruit, savory herbs, menthol, licorice and spice. The purity of the fruit is remarkable today. There is plenty of youthful Howell Mountain tannin, so readers will have to be patient. Bright floral accents lift the red/purplish berry fruit nicely. This is such an expressive, alluring Cabernet. (AG)