1990 Château Lafleur

The 1990 Lafleur was similar to the bottle shown at the Lafleur/Petrus/Le Pin dinner. It is a vintage that I used to adore and in many ways, still do. However as I remarked during this vertical, it is one of the few vintages where the character of the growing season is translated over the signature terroir of Lafleur. Nevertheless, the nose is fresher and more vital than the previous bottle with glossy black fruit laced with undergrowth scents, this particular example exhibiting a light star anise aroma that intensifies with aeration. The palate is full-bodied with supple ripe tannin, layers of rich black fruit, powerful and voluminous. I feel that the Merlot is more expressive than the Cabernet Franc: smooth and sexy in texture, moderate acidity and glycerin towards the lush finish. It is a gorgeous Pomerol to drink, offering more sensory joy than intellectual stimulation. Hey, but sometimes that is exactly what you want. Tasted at the “International Wine & Business” Lafleur dinner at Ten Trinity, London.

Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 1990 Lafleur was actually shown up by the 1989 on this occasion. Perhaps this is a wine that flourished in its youth but is beginning to show its age. Frankly, it was a little disappointing on the nose: muted at first and then gradually unfurling with undergrowth scents, bell peppers and white pepper. This feels a little loose-knit, leather, and hung game/dried blood scents emerging and ultimately dominant. The palate is fresh on the entry and much "cooler" than I expect insofar that it does not translate the heat of that summer. It is not quite as harmonious as previous bottles and especially compared to the brilliant 1989 it just seems to taper in towards the finish. I am being perhaps overly critical because it remains a great Pomerol, however, it is possibly beginning to find it difficult to keep up with the 1989.