2008 Château Lafleur

The 2008 Lafleur is the surprise of the evening, and on this occasion, it had the audacity to outflank the 2009. Vivid blackberry, clove and crushed stone spring from the glass, bright and almost effervescent compared to the 2009. The palate has exquisite balance and poise, concentrated and structured yet more linear on the finish than the 2010. It gains persistency with aeration. Tasted from ex-château magnum at Kate & Kon's 40-Year vertical in Austria.

Tasted blind. Essence of ripe black fruit on the nose. A little furry rather than pure. Falls away a bit on the end. Dour with a sudden end. Too sweet. (JR)

The 2008 Lafleur is a wine that I have tasted several times. It mirrored my previous encounters. There is still impressive fruit concentration on the nose, equally distributed between red and black, a hint of clove and just a touch of Italian delicatessen emanating from the Cabernet Franc. The palate has just melted a little since its obdurate infancy, although it is still quite linear and "strict". You might argue that the 2008 Lafleur is a little charmless at the moment, but bottle age will sculpt and abrade this Pomerol into a very fine, if slightly aloof wine. (This was not shown at BI Wine & Spirit’s horizontal but a bottle was opened at a private dinner when I was in Bordeaux a few days earlier.)