2009 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes 1er Cru

The 2009 Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes is oddly enough much more typical of this wine than the 2010 tasted alongside it. The Feusselottes is quite closed, though. With time in the glass some of the red fruit and flowers begin to emerge, but the 2009 remains somewhat shut down. It shows lovely textural richness and depth all the way through to the layered, sexy finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Sisters Marie-Andree and Marie-Christine Mugneret made some of the very best wines of the year. Their 2009s capture the silky, sexy personality of the vintage while maintaining a classic, mid-weight sense of structure. Importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300, a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Good medium red. Deeply pitched aromas of musky strawberry, raspberry, minerals and white pepper. Juicy, sappy and perfumed, showing lovely definition and lift to its red berry, spice and floral flavors. Shows real mineral energy and finishes perfumed, long and vibrant. From vines averaging 50 to 55 years of age. An excellent vintage for this bottling.

Good bright red-ruby. Sexy raspberry and floral aromas suggest a wine from a cooler year-a neat trick for a 2009 Chambolle from lower altitude, many of which struck me as overripe and low in acidity. Dense, pliant and juicy, with lovely definition and vibrancy to the flavors of red berries, menthol, spices and minerals. Classic Chambolle, and not overly sweet. Very successful for the year.