2008 Domaine François Bertheau Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Fresh red raspberry and pungent herbs in the nose of Bertheau’s 2008 Bonnes Mares lead to a sharply-bright, tart-edged palate impression and a finish of palate-staining persistence that adds fruit pit and citrus oil piquancy; crushed stone; as well as an invigorating sense of salinity and of crunching down on the red raspberry seeds. This hasn’t the refinement or allure of the corresponding Amoureuses but should hold up impressively for at least 6-8 years. Francois Bertheau’s tendency toward rendering frisky, sharply-etched and sharp-edged Pinot was practically bound to be accentuated by 2008 vintage character, and the quality of results varied considerably by appellation. Asked which of 2007 and 2008 were more challenging, Bertheau answered, in English, “fifty-fifty,” but this is one address where I found the softer, riper, if relatively diffuse personality of the former vintage more satisfying. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524