2005 Domaine Tardieu-Laurent Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Speciale VV

The deep ruby/purple colored 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Speciale reveals notes of tree bark, blackberry, kirsch, licorice, pepper, and roasted meats. It is full-bodied, tannic, has zesty acidity, and a gripping, muscular structure. This is a wine that needs to be forgotten for a good 6-8 years before consumption. Michel Tardieu, who has exceptional knowledge about some of the finest vineyards and grape sources in both the northern and southern Rhone, utilizes the consulting services of renowned oenologist Philippe Cambie. The southern cuvees in 2005 were all very strong. These wines are generally aged in small, new oak barrels but with the Grenache cuvees kept in less new oak. Certainly they can show some new oak early in their life, but experience has taught me that after 4-5 years they become well-integrated in the richer, riper years. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029 and William-Harrison Imports, Inc. Manassas, Virginia 20109 (tel) (703) 815-9463.

Deep ruby. Explosively aromatic nose melds raspberry, wild strawberry, orange marmalade and floral honey. Ripe, sweet and sexy, with superb depth and power to its flavors of red berries, orange, anise and bitter chocolate. There's a lot going on here! Finishes with a palate-staining flavor of lush, sweet raspberry.

All Grenache from just two estates. Not the deepest colour, oddly enough – much paler than tne Vieilles Vignes. A more evolved nose – quite meaty and gamey. Round and sweet but less concentrated – no new oak used here. Tardieu is especially proud of the texture of this wine. But today it looks rather softer rather than smoother than the Vieilles Vignes. Less attack. (JR)