1999 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru

The 1999 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked from September 22 until the morning of September 27, with alcohol degrees between 13.1° and 13.7°. It is a vintage that has not quite delivered as I was expecting it to. It is adorned with an attractive, rather ostentatious bouquet of the red plum and bergamot scents that I have observed on previous bottles, though not the mineralité I would anticipate as it approaches two decades in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, featuring a mélange of red and black fruit, and powerful and burly, with black pepper and Earl Grey toward the finish. It is a Clos de Tart determined to make an impression and yet it is beginning to fall short in terms of finesse and terroir expression. Tasted at a private Clos de Tart dinner in London.

Dark red color; looks like a young wine. Expressive if slightly medicinal aromas of dark berries, purple flowers, spices and crushed-stone minerality. Dense and rather powerful if a bit unrefined, with very rich flavors of redcurrant, tobacco, spices and wild herbs conveying a strong impression of extract (perhaps a bit too much saignée here?). A bit less brisk in the mouth than it is on the nose, but with no shortage of acidity. Finishes with a serious dusting of tannins and strong saline persistence. (The tannins in today's Clos de Tart are finer.) This wine may be passing through an awkward stage of its evolution in bottle.

Dark red color; looks like a young wine. Expressive if slightly medicinal aromas of dark berries, purple flowers, spices and crushed-stone minerality. Dense and rather powerful if a bit unrefined, with very rich flavors of redcurrant, tobacco, spices and wild herbs conveying a strong impression of extract (perhaps a bit too much saignée here?). A bit less brisk in the mouth than it is on the nose, but with no shortage of acidity. Finishes with a serious dusting of tannins and strong saline persistence. (ST) 93+