1989 Veuve Clicquot Brut La Grande Dame

A very grand jeroboam that surfaced when transferring wine from our old home to our new one. I think I may have hung on to it for a bit too long as the (undoubtedly opulent in youth) fruit seemed currently to be receding. Deep gold. Savoury, mature nose although it actually smelt more youthful than I expected ie not seriously old but with marked evolution. Bone-dry finish and not enormous depth on the mid palate. Dried citrus peel flavours but not much richness. The suggested drink dates refer to this wine in regular 75 cl bottle size, not this four-bottles-in-one. (JR)

1989 marked a return to the hot and sunny vintages such as the legendary years 1945,1959 and 1964. After a relatively mild winter, bud break was very early, from the end of March onwards. However the spring-like conditions rapidly deteriorated into a colder spell. On 27 April 27 a severe frost attacked a substantial part of the Champagne vineyards. The Côte des Blancs suffered minor damage, mainly towards northern part (Chouilly).The vineyards of Avize, Oger and Mesnil-sur-Oger remained intact, as did Verzenay and Verzy, on the Montagne de Reims. There was greater damage to the east and the south, notably the crus of Ambonnay, Bouzy and Ay, on the lower slopes. The Veuve Clicquot vineyard, which is situated on the middle slopes of these areas where the frost was less biting, was relatively unharmed. A milder period of almost summer weather set in, allowing the vine to return to its usual life-cycle but at the beginning of the crucial flowering period, there was a cold snap that raised the risk of damage from shatter and millerandage. Better weather came and fortunately lasted from mid-June until the harvest, giving a succession of hot, sunny days. Picking began on 4 September. The first grapes were picked from the best crus of the Côte des Blancs and had ripened in perfect conditions. A few days later we harvested Pinot Noir, which were then at their best: superb quality and in perfect condition. The Pinots Noirs exceeded 10 g/l (18˚B) and the Chardonnays from our best crus even reached 11 g/l (20˚B). 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. Dosage 8 g/l, disgorged 1996. Mid gold, still has great mousse. Has the cedary note of the 1998 but also a quince-like freshness, softened by a yeasty/toasty depth – quince on toast, nutty, celery salt. Toasty and a little reductive (charred toast) on the palate, not as full bodied as the 1998 but persistent and very elegant. Gloriously fresh and vibrant. Toasty and so fresh on the finish. (JH)

Yeasty, vinous, pinot driven aromas of red berries and earth. Large-scaled and mouthfilling, with excellent intensity and subtle notes of apple, lemon and toast. Has a perfumed quality in the mouth. Subtle and very long and nicely balanced for the vintage.