2011 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard

Much more earthy, mineral-driven and structured, the 2011 Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard, which saw only 9% stem inclusion and 16 months in 50% new French oak, exhibits deep, layered aromas and flavors of black currants, underbrush, loamy soil, mint and tobacco to go with a medium-bodied, broad and big-boned profile on the palate. Beautifully focused, with brilliant purity and lively acidity, it is a serious, Burgundian effort that will benefit from short-term cellaring and shine for over a decade. Drink 2015-2021. This was a pretty, elegant lineup of wines by owners/winemakers Dan Kosta and Michael Browne. Tel. (707) 823-7430; www.kostabrowne.com

Layers of dark black cherry and plum flesh out in the 2011 Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard. A dark, broad-shouldered wine, the 2011 boasts terrific depth and pure volume. Hints of cola, spice, menthol and crushed rocks inform the tense, yet enveloping finish. This is a gorgeous wine that captures both the typical forward Kosta Browne fruit while also expressing the vibrancy of the year.

(made with 50% whole clusters): Bright ruby. Candied red and dark berries and rose pastille on the highly perfumed nose and in the mouth. Shows impressive depth as well as energy, with an emphatic spiciness that builds with air. Closes sweet and very long, with resonating floral and spice notes and just a hint of tannins.