2009 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard shows the exuberance of this site. Black cherries, flowers, pine, menthol and violets build nicely in the glass as the wine shows off its personality. The aromas and flavors continue to grow in intensity all the way through to an elegant finish layered with persistent saline notes. The Garys’ was partially vinified in oak, with 17% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Kosta Browne is one of the great American success stories of the last decade. The story begins when longtime friends Dan Kosta and Michael Browne discover a shared passion for Pinot Noir while working together at a local restaurant. They start with a tiny amount of homemade Pinot Noir, grow gradually, acquire some financing along the way, work their tails off and one day the mailing list requires a five year wait for the vineyard designated wines. Of course I am simplifying, but Kosta Browne is the type of entrepreneurial success that can only happen in this country. Over the years, as the winemaking approach has developed, the wines have become much more finessed than they used to be. Toast levels have come down. Some lots are fermented in open top wood vats, an approach that seems promising based on the wines I tasted. A number of the wines were fermented with whole clusters, as noted below. The Kosta-Browne Pinots are notable for their exuberant fruit. The wines are incredibly attractive when young, which is when I prefer to drink them. Tel. (707) 823-7430

(fermented with 25% whole clusters): Vivid ruby. Red berry and cherry aromas are complicated by dried rose and Asian spices, along with an exotic hint of apricot. Expansive and expressive in the mouth, offering sweet raspberry and cherry-cola flavors enlivened by tangy acidity. The cherry and spice notes linger on the finish with very good tenacity and clarity. This one should reward at least few more years of patience.