2005 Torbreck Shiraz RunRig

The 2005 vintage in Barossa was very good and remarkably unremarkable in that nothing went wrong—the wines produced have proven to be lovely, and it breaks the rhythm of the even vintages being the superstars. The 2005 RunRig echoes some of the characters of the 2003 vintage, with plum pudding, date, dark chocolate and roasted meat. The finish is powerful. It closes strong, showing the wine has a long future ahead of it. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

(95% shiraz and 5% viognier) Glass-staining violet color. Explosively and seductively perfumed, displaying potent dark berry and floral aromas along with Indian spices, pipe tobacco and incense. Deeply concentrated, ripe blackcurrant and bitter cherry flavors are framed by silky tannins, picking up suave spices and candied flowers on the back end. This hits every square inch of the palate and lingers endlessly on the finish, with the dark berry and floral qualities repeating. Showing extremely well today, with the fruit strongly to the fore.

Torbreck’s flagship is the 2005 Run Rig, a 97% Shiraz cuvee sourced from 120- to 160-year-old vines with 3% finished Viognier added before bottling. It spent 30 months in 60% new French oak. Opaque purple/black in color, it has a kinky, exotic bouquet of fresh road tar, smoke, lavender, black pepper, game, blueberry, and black raspberry. Full-bodied and opulent on the palate, the wine is dense, packed, and unevolved. It will continue to open up over the next 10-12 years and drink well through 2040 in the style of a Chapoutier Hermitage. If it develops as I think it will, it will be a candidate for perfection down the road. Jay Miller, The Wine Advocate, Feb 2009