2006 Colgin Syrah IX Estate

Good full red. Sexy, savory scents of plum, brown spices, mint and meat. Plush and liqueur-like, and sweeter than the 2005, with its dark raspberry fruit complicated by notes of smoked bacon, minty herbs, fennel seed and stewed vegetables; this Syrah is animal, vegetable and mineral in the same mouthful. Serious but ripe acidity and suave tannins give this midweight wine lovely shape and a light touch. Still, I find it most impressive on the front half. With its smoky and saline elements, this should match up beautifully with quail or pheasant. (This wine was going through a sullen stage when I last tasted it in 2013, but today it's delivering on its early promise.)

Good deep ruby-red. Very closed but pure nose offers crushed black cherry, licorice, dark chocolate and licorice; showing less of the game and truffle qualities of other vintages. Moderately sweet and ripe but a bit stunted on the palate; juicy but could use more pliancy. Dark berry flavors are firmed on the end by substantial tannins. This may well be passing through a sullen stage: will it expand and gain in flesh with more time in bottle?

Bright ruby. Knockout nose combines black fruits, violet, game, pepper, flowers and brown spices, along with a whiff of meat. Then compellingly sweet and smooth on the palate, but with a shockingly light touch and lovely inner-mouth perfume. The nose says California, but the wine's rocky vibrancy is more Northern Rhone. This very elegant wine finishes with terrific rising length and thoroughly buffered tannins.