2002 Dominus

This 2002 was virtually perfect when I tasted it in early May. Even better than I predicted seven years ago, this 4,500-case blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and the rest Petit Verdot and Merlot has blossomed beautifully, revealing even greater intensity and potential than I predicted. A flawless, seamless integration of tannin, wood, alcohol and acidity is found in this dense, plum/purple-colored Dominus, along with copious notes of sweet black currants interwoven with kirsch, forest floor, unsmoked cigar tobacco, new saddle leather and forest floor. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, stunning elegance and a 45-second finish, this sensational 2002 rivals two of the all-time great wines made at Dominus, 1991 and 1994. It is hard to believe that proprietor Christian Moueix’s Dominus Estate has already celebrated its 25th anniversary and is moving toward 30 years with the 2012-2013 vintages. The 2002 will drink well for another 20 years. Tel. (707) 944-8954; Fax (707) 944-0547

(85% cabernet sauvignon, 8% cabernet sauvignon, 4% petit verdot and 3% merlot) Red-ruby. Cool, shy aromas of currant, blackberry and licorice, with a leafy, medicinal aspect. Dense, fat and structured but also quite penetrating and powerful, with black fruit, licorice and herbal flavors and a strong impression of extract. This offers noteworthy energy in the mouth, and finishes quite claret-like, with fine-grained tannins and sneaky length. A sample from another bottle that had been decanted for 24 hours showed a suaver texture but had not lost its solid tannic spine. Offers excellent potential but not quite the length of the 2001. Champy notes that the pH of 3.87 is the lowest in recent years here.

There are 6,500 cases of the 2000 Dominus (a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot). It is a medium-bodied, tightly-knit offering displaying more complex aromatics than the score might suggest. Notes of cedar, saddle leather, tapenade, dried herbs, coffee, and sweet cherries and plums are present in the impressive aromatics. In the mouth, it is compact and medium-bodied. Austere/astringent tannin in the finish held my score down. Some improvement will occur with aging, but I do not see the generosity or wealth of fruit and concentration necessary to balance out the tannic structure. Anticipated maturity: now-2012. Dec 2003, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2003-2012