NV Jacques Selosse Brut Initial Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

I love this release of the NV Champagne Grand Cru Blanc De Blancs Initial, which comes from the 2018, 2017, and 2016 vintages and originates from the lower slopes in Avize, Cramant, and Oger. Golden straw-colored, it has a great deal of depth and complexity. It’s a touch volatile on opening, but that quickly blows off to reveal deeper aromatics of nectarine, smoky wet stones, citrus oils, toast, and praline. Full-bodied and both fruity and savory, with lovely extract and generosity and a pleasing warmth on the finish, this is stunning already and should provide a wide window for enjoyment over the coming 15 or so years.

The latest release of the NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Initial, a cuvée that derives from the bottom part of the slopes mostly in Avize, Cramant and a bit of Oger, is based on the 2018 vintage with some 35% reserve wines from 2017 and 2016 and disgorged in June 2024 with two grams per liter dosage. Its relative generosity is informed by the mostly south-facing vines (with a minority facing east), and the topsoil here is less rich in clay and with more fragmented chalk bedrock compared to the higher-altitude parcels that produce Version Originale. Soaring from the glass with aromas of tangerine, beeswax and pear, it’s ample and demonstrative, balanced with vibrant acidity and chalky structuring extract bringing freshness to its rich core of fruit. When the tasting begins with such quality, there is no question you’re in the presence of genius.

Very pronounced and wonderfully complex nose of persimmon, egg yolk, cinnamon, tarte tatin, caramel, mango pastry, apricot tart and spice box. The full-bodied palate feathers a fine line between sheer power, luscious dried fruit and laser-guided acidity. Very long and intense on the finish. Drink now or hold. Disgorged 13 November 2018.