2017 Château Haut-Bailly

I continue to believe that the top 2017s from Bordeaux are undervalued in the market: case in point, the 2017 Château Haut-Bailly. This is a gorgeous wine that I think is as good, if not better than the 2000. Stylistically, it's closer in style to the 2014 with its purity, balance, and elegance, yet it brings plenty of fruit and depth. Classic red and black fruit, smoked tobacco, scorched earth, and cedar pencil notes define the aromatics, and it's balanced and has a layered, seamless mouthfeel as well as a great finish. I would be thrilled with a case in the cellar, and it's going to drink well for three decades.

The 2017 Haut-Bailly is open and focused on the nose with blackberry and briary, crushed stone and light blueberry scents, still primal but very delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, sappy red berry fruit and orange rind. Light spicy notes emerge towards the extended finish. More early drinking than 2016, but not to be underrated. Tasted at the Haut-Bailly vertical at the château.

Tasted blind.  Deep ruby colour. Quite earthy and savoury on the nose – peppery hedgerow fruit has a lightly warming quality. The palate shows savoury fruit at the core with fair intensity, yet there is an earthy, leafy edge here. Firm and slender, this tightly wound wine may need time to truly flourish. (TP)