2009 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard

Light gold in color, with an extraordinary nose of poached pears, citrus honey and a touch of orange rind, the 2009 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard has beautiful fruit, a full-bodied mouthfeel, penetrating acids and an underlying minerality and richness. The finish goes on for a good 40-45 seconds. This is sensational Chardonnay and very much in keeping with this vineyard. Drink now-2020.

Apricot, peaches, sweet spices and butterscotch all meld together in the 2009 Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard. There is good immediacy to the fruit, but overall the 2009 lacks the depth to stand up to its oak, which is felt in the flavors, but more importantly, in the texture, while the finish is compact and attenuated. I would be tempted to give the 2009 another year or two to see if the wood integrates a little more fully. There is a chance that will happen given how well these wines have aged historically. A second bottle of the 2009, tasted informally, showed better balance.

The 2012 Chardonnay Maracassin Vineyard, from the estate vineyard in Fort Ross-Seaview, is peaking today. Soft, open-knit and engaging, the 2012 caresses the palate with hints of dried apricot, chamomile, crushed flowers and almond. For my palate, the 2012 is a touch beyond where I find the most pleasure in wine. Specifically, the mid-palate has started to fade and that in turn pushes the oak forward, especially texturally, where there is some dryness on the finish.