2005 Château Calon-Ségur

The classic Gasqueton years, when Calon was for the initiated, and they held on fervently to their insider status. Beautiful ruby red colour, rapsberry puree and cocoa dusting aromatics, still young, a wonderfully embracing tannic frame, rapsberrry, blueberry and loganberry fruits, slate-scraping minerality, just a gorgeous wine that is bursting out of the glass and still has so much more to give. Balanced, mouthwatering, persistent, just at the start of its long and pleasure-filled life, showcasing so much that is wonderful about 2005. Get on board. This is a 2 point higher score than the last time I tasted in April 2021, reflecting that the 2005s are just right now beginning to open up. 50% new oak.

Brilliant, old-school classic St Estèphe. Not as slick as you will find Calon Ségur today, but that is part of its charm. Soft buttery leather notes, very much on the tertiary side at 16 years old, brambled blackberry fruits, tannins a little dusty perhaps, tumeric and saffon spices. Approachable, unfussy and yet the elegance and persisetency reminds you that this is a brilliant estate.

Tasted blind. Blackish crimson. Sweet, well developed nose. Lots of fruit concentration in the middle. Pretty classy stuff. Lovely full ripe fruit fully covers the tannin. Just very slightly bitter on the end. (JR)