2009 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir Ten

One of the Sea Smoke flagships, the 2009 Pinot Noir Ten impresses for its depth and sheer power. Layers of flavor flow through to the huge, dramatic finish in a full-bodied, intense Pinot. Once the intensity of the fruit fades, there is not much development in the glass, which results in an overall impression of one-dimensionality. The Ten is made from all ten Pinot clones planted on the property. While a solid effort, I expected more from this offering, which also happens to be the wine through which I discovered Sea Smoke years ago. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. It had been a few years since I last tasted the Sea Smoke wines, so I was curious to check out these current releases. At their best, the Sea Smoke Pinots offer gorgeous textural richness, depth and personality. I have to say that Sea Smoke’s recent decision to add the words “California Grand Cru” to their labels is preposterous and blatantly self-serving, since the term means absolutely nothing. Moreover, this invented designation has the potential to be immensely deceiving to consumers who don’t know there is no classification – formal or informal – when it comes to California’s vineyards. A formal classification is a worthy objective. Perhaps it will one day be a reality. But if it does happen, it certainly won’t be up to wineries to classify their vineyards for us. Tel. (805) 737-1600; www.seasmoke.com

Opaque ruby. Pungent, expressive bouquet offers dark berry compote, cola, vanilla bean and incense qualities, along with slow-building spiciness and notes of clove and mocha. Lush, palate-coating blackberry and mulberry flavors are lifted by gentle acidity and complicated by notes of spicecake and candied violet. Tannins build with air and carry through a very long, sweet, oak-spicy finish. This is a baby.