2012 Bollinger La Grande Année

For a Champagne that always rewards some patience, the 2012 is beautifully open and expressive from the get-go, offering up ripe, fresh, opulent fruit, with fantastic tension and acidity and a tightly wound core that promises great ageing potential. The wonderful smoky, nutty and caramel tones imparted by Bollinger’s distinct foudre ageing are already present, but more of a promise of future greatness than immediately in the foreground. The vintage was blessed by what the Champenois call a ‘Champagne miracle’ – a slightly overcast, damp start to the growing season finished off with a dry, sunny spell leading up to harvest – resulting in reduced yields of superbly concentrated, small-berried fruit. Both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir performed excellently and Bollinger was able to include fruit from 21 crus, including Aÿ, Verzenay, Le Mesnil and Oiry for the 65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay blend. The nose is immediately rich and toasty, with lovely ripe apricot, peach and apples, as well as honeyed hazelnuts and walnuts, and some warm ginger and cinnamon spice. Although exuberant there is also a cool, saline and mineral restraint, which is echoed on the palate, which offers fantastic depth and power, a super long, luxurious yet fresh finish and a wonderful silkiness of texture. This is fabulous now, already beckoning the drinker with its open charm, yet the tightly wound core and electric energy promises great ageing potential.